First impression of Lyon? I didn’t like it.
I didn’t care about the Pencil, Eraser, and Ruler. I wasn’t impressed by the story of Louis Pradel (Mr. Concrete) building the highways. I was annoyed that we drove right past the Roman Theater of Fourviere without stopping.
But then we pulled up to the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière, and everything changed.
An older gentleman sat outside the church playing music on his accordion. We stepped inside and found the most elaborate church of the entire trip. Later, we wandered through the secret tunnels of Old Town. Lyon suddenly opened up before my eyes, and before I knew it, this had become one of my favorite days of the whole journey.
Explore the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourviere
They were cleaning the exterior while we were there, which was a bit of a shame, but it hardly took away from the grandeur of the architecture. Standing in the courtyard and looking up, you can’t help but marvel at the craftsmanship. Inside, every surface seemed covered in gold, mosaics, and intricate tilework. More artwork than any church we’d seen on the trip — masterpiece after masterpiece surrounding us from floor to ceiling.
Outside the Basilica was an incredible vantage point overlooking the entire city below. Our tour guide used the [model] to explain Lyon’s layout and which areas were shaped by Roman influence in the 43 BC. Again, lots of emphasis on buildings, the Pencil, Eraser, and Ruler… maybe remarkable to someone. But the view itself was unforgettable. If you visit, bring a ribbon to tie onto the “wish trees” outside the cathedral.
Into Old Town
Afterward, we headed back down the hill into Old Town. We got to see a few of the secret passageways of Old Lyon, called Traboules. Dating back to 4th century these tunnels and courtyards were once used for silk workers transporting goods, later escape routes during the French Resistance. Today, only 40 of the rumored 400 Traboules are open to the public. Many of those tunnels provide access to residential housing. Historic alleyways, yes — but also real homes for the people of Lyon — so our visit was fascinating but brief.
The second I stepped into Old Town, I knew I wasn’t going back with the tour group.
We had some free time, but I wanted more. Waving goodbye to the guide, I headed off on my own to explore. Shops, cafés, and restaurants lined the narrow streets, giving hints of Vieux Nice vibes. After enjoying the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, I picked up some souvenirs and a new dress from Coquettes, then grabbed a sandwich from a boulangerie for my walk back to the ship.
Walk along the River
Across the Saône from Old Town, Lyon feels much more modern. Trees line the riverside streets, casting refreshing shade over the walk along the water. From there, you can see the Basilica peeking from her perch high on the hill, while Église Saint-Georges de Lyon rises above the crystal-blue Saône alongside several other churches whose names I never learned.
A quartet of young girls practice a dance routine nearby. A couple shares a picnic lunch. Young men cast fishing lines into the river. Peaceful, beautiful life unfolding all around me.
This would be our last day in France. Tomorrow we would pack up and catch a train to Switzerland, leaving this fairy tale behind.
Au revoir, France. You’ve been beautiful.
